Dec 27-29, 2006
Haukeliseter Lodge
On the Hardangervidda Plateau, central Norway
Haukeliseter: http://www.haukeliseter.no
Den Norsk Turistforeningen: http://www.turistforeningen.no
The Haukeliseter is a rustic alpine ski lodge which is part of the network of 'hyttas' or huts run by the Norwegian Tourist Association. It is situated above tree line at 3200 ft elevation on the Hardangervidda Plateau, a national park. From Haukeliseter it is possible to ski or hike up and down the spine of the Norwegian cordillera from hytta to hytta. The hyttas offer bunk-style accommodations and stocked food which is paid for by debit card on the honor system. Haukeliseter is a little nicer, with private bathrooms, an excellent restaurant and, of course, a sauna.
The Haukeliseter is situated near one of the few roads leading over the mountains, in this case between Haugesund on the coast and Oslo in the interior. We hoped to stay there and just ski the local area for a couple of days after Christmas, saving the hytta hikes for next summer. Unfortunately, while there had been a big dump of 1.5 metres of snow the week before, warm weather had left an icy crust that made skiing impossible. Fortunately the snow crust was thick enough to permit some good hiking, and we were able to hike some 5 miles out onto the tundra plateau, skirting frozen lakes and climbing to the top of a high ridge for good views.
The sun rose each day in the far southeast at around 10:30 a.m. and set around 2:30 p.m. in the far southwest. Even at 'high noon' here at 60 degrees north, there were sunset-like alpenglow and shadows during most of the short day. The two short days of bright sunshine were the first sunny days we'd seen in months, and below us we could see clouds packed into the fjords, evidence that the west coast of Norway was still socked in a raining below us.
Note the private 'hytta' we hiked up to. This is classic Norway. Almost every family owns a cabin like this, either at the sea coast or in the mountains and it wouldn't be a real hytta without grass (and shrubs and small trees!) growing on the roof. Some are luxurious, some are rustic like this one. It doesn't hurt to have a carved troll or two as decoration out on the porch as well.
